Wednesday, December 31, 2008

December 31, Ruth's house

It's actually 2 a.m. on Jan 1, 2009. But I'm way too sleepy to write about it tonight. So when I awake in the morning I'll write all about our preparations for a New Year's party we didn't attend, church on New Year's Eve, and about the local congressman in the Moungo Division who has promised to give WEH land for establishing a vocational center. Good night and Bonne Annee.

Tuesday, December 30, Ruth's house

We asked for a slow day today and we got it. Ruth had much to do and sort of came and went all day. It's amazing how many people come and go from her house.

They have been battling multiple problems with the house related to electricity, plumbing, and Internet (!) so various repairmen came and went. The Internet repairman was a delightful young man named Chamberlain. (That should interest my friends back home whose last name is Chamberlain.) He was very adept at the processes necessary to isolate the modem problem, and then to get my laptop and the Stone's laptop onto Ruth and Raphael's wireless network.

Amongst the many visitors was a friend of theirs who is a pastor, and his wife. And there was a doctor (MarcelNgom) and his wife (Marceline). She is the treasurer of Ruth's NGO -- “Women, Environment, and Health” (see http://wehfriends.pbwiki.com). We shared with her how much we hope that we can find a way to ship many sewing machines. She asked how many. For some reason the number 100 popped out of my mouth. Woudn't that be amazing!

It was a great, relaxing day. I love the papaya and the fresh pineapple. It is so sweet and perfectly ripe. We've also had plantain, and lunch today was African: lamb stew and fufu and slices of white yam and a wonderful caramel custard. We feel thoroughly gifted in every way.

Same day, in the evening

Ruth said she was very surprised and impressed with my French. My confidence is increasing, and I try to think about how to say things in French even when we are chatting in English. But I can hardly understand anything a French speaker says.

Today Ruth awoke me at about 8:30. I have slept so well. It was time for breakfast which we ate in the formal dining room, like all the meals. We took our time getting going, letting Joe sleep in longer. Finally, we got in the car and departed for Edea, where they lived until about 15 years ago. We drove in busy traffic for some distance, through a large vendor area with many people walking among the heavy, slow-moving traffic to peddle their wares. After about half-an-hour Ruth said, “You all do have your passports with you, don't you?” We didn't. She apologized for not having asked us at home but said we had to go home to get them. She said we may not need to identify ourselves, but that we should have them just in case. She has frequently said that often police will set up seemingly official check points and ask for a fake fee to let you through. She said we needed to protect ourselves in as many ways as possible against such things. On several occasions we have seen our driver just confidently drive through such stops. The police are there to “take” the innocent. So we had to drive all the way back to the house to get our passports. Then we were off again.

It took over an hour, after that, to get to Edea. When we arrived it became apparent that Ruth had reserved a place for us to have lunch. When we went in, we realized it was the same place that Raphael was having lunch. He had told us that he would be meeting with a large group of village chiefs. They wanted to talk with him, before he retired, about the expectations they had for assistance from Alucam. We stopped for a moment at their table; Raphael introduced us all around. Then we were led to our table in a wonderful “boucalou” with a straw roof, looking towards the river.

Interruption. Monsieur Jean Francois, the owner of the restaurant we went to yesterday, has just arrived at Ruth's house. What a pleasure. His English is very poor (much poorer than my French!), so we couldn't converse very well until Ruth joined us. He told Ruth to tell us that if we want to take a couple of days off from our work with Ruth's NGO, we would be his guests at his hotel.

Anyway, yesterday he came and had lunch with us. He's a Frenchman married to a Cameroonian. But the Cameroonian wife is in France, while he is here. They visit from time to time! The lunch was magnificent, beautifully prepared. A salad, which included celery greens, and then a plate of local fish from the river. It was not at all “fishy.” I think Sam would really like that fish – and the one we had for dinner the day before, too. When Raphael was done with his lunch he came to our boucalou to say good-bye. I joked, “Raphael, nous avons une personne tres important ici!” And I gestured to Jean Francois. Everyone laughed. It was great fun.

When I finished my first French CD course a few weeks ago, the teacher – Michel Thomas – said, “Congratulations. You have learned a great deal and you will find that now you can express yourself with confidence.” I didn't really believe him at the time, but it's true. I'm so pleased. I'm very unclear about past tense, and my vocabulary is limited, but I really can express myself.

After the magnificent lunch, we drove some distance through rubber tree plantations and rural vegetation. Ruth wanted to show us a Catholic mission where many German missionaries died in the late 1800s from dysentery and malaria, some very young. We were given a tour of the mission and we signed the guest book. I expressed that in England I had celebrated the mass in a church which goes all the way back to the days of the Catholic church there. The priest smiled. I could not tell how he felt about that.

We got away at about 5 p.m. So it was dark by the time we got home. Once again, we drove through the part of the highway with vendors on all sides. Frankly, I can't believe that we haven't had a fender bender already, or at last seen one. Yesterday we drove by a couple of damaged vehicles by the side of the road.

We rested a bit at home until Raphael got home from work. We ate dinner at about 9:30 p.m. A wonderful soup again, and then fish. Once again it did not taste fishy. Sam would like it. Afterwards we retired to the “family room” and ate fresh, locally roasted peanuts. Delicious.

Time to go to bed, nearly 11:00 p.m.

Journal entry on December 29, 2008

Ruth's house

Ruth awakened me this morning at nearly 8:30. I haven't felt any jet lag. For breakfast we had papaya and bread and eggs. It's been a slow morning so I was able to unpack my clothes and clean off the desk for my computer.

Some more about church yesterday: There were three different choirs, plus a marvelous group of Sunday School kids. The kids each recited a portion of the Gospel of John and performed a skit. Most of the service was in French, but Ruth said that sometimes the choirs sang in a Congolese language. The service lasted three hours. The pastor's baby was baptized. I enjoyed that literally all the people were doing the work of worship. I felt like I was dreaming. The music fulfilled all my expectations of joyful African singing. Sometimes I was nearly in tears. At the end they introduced us and asked me if I wanted to say something. I used a lot of French in what I said. The pastor did some translating. Later I was told that he was not doing a good job. Raphael stood up and clarified my story. I started out by saying I had wanted to come to Africa since I was a child. I tried to describe how a missionary in Congo brought Ruth and me together. And how we were roommates in college. I thanked them for being the church, so joyful and lively, and that we were blessed to the bottom of our heart and soul. And with Ruth's go-ahead, I said that the Stones and I want to give them a baptismal font. The young people had given a lectern which had been locally made. So I took a picture of it and we 'll figure out how to have the font made. They were very pleased and very grateful. I took some pictures of the exterior of the church.

After a short time receiving refreshments--including beer!--in the yard outside the church building, we left. We came home and had a wonderful lunch again. Then we left to go to Raphael's village. It took several hours to get there. It takes great skill to drive in town or in the rural areas. Traffic is crazy and there are vendors by the side of the road, especially before we left the city. Eventually we got to dirt roads, and went through several wide spots in the road, each of which was a village. When we finally got to Mangamba they took us to the house they have built over the last ten years. It is a lovely home and I took pictures of it. We had a beer and they showed us the church next door that they had built in the village. There had been a church there since German days before the first world war, but it had fallen into disrepair or collapsed or something. So a number of years ago they had this church built. We met the pastor there and had a delightful time.

We returned to Douala. As we travel and I see the people carrying produce on their heads, and cars overloaded with people and produce, and the bananas and pineapples and lots of children, and vendors by the sides of the road, I think, “Wow, that looks like all the pictures I've seen of Africa.” The same with the open air churches and the schools, also open air.

We had a hilarious time over dinner. We had a wonderful spicy soup. (It seems that they serve wine at lunch, not at dinner.) We got on the subject of Raphael's retirement and how, as the General Manager of Alucam (a large aluminum processing operation), he really is an important person. He's a very modest man, but he did concede, during the conversation, that he will be missed. Ruth joked with him about how he was tooting his own horn. He said something like, “It's OK for me to say these things to friends.” Joe quickly responded, “With your horn.” We all burst out laughing. I guess you had to be there. I haven't laughed so hard in a long time. Later when someone else tooted his/her own horn, Joe pantomimed playing a trumpet. It's become a great joke re-shared many times.

Journal entry on Sunday, December 28

Ruth's House, Douala

We've been here a little over 24 hours. How can I possibly describe everything? The flight from Brussels to Douala passed pretty uneventfully – except that we were kept on the ground for nearly an hour, so we were late getting into Douala. I slept several times, much better than the night before. My seat mate was a young Cameroonian man who has settled in Chicago. He wants to bring his whole family to the U.S. He was very angry at Cameroon and all its corruption and just wanted to get out. Such a contrast to Ruth and Raphael who want to help make it different.

When we finally landed in Douala, I signaled across the aisle to Joe and Barbara to hurry with me off the plane. I was so excited to see Ruth, and I didn't want her to wait too long. So we were among the first off the plane. Then they remembered that they had not filled out their disembarkment card, so we had to stop to do that. By the time they finished we were at the end of the line! First we moved slowly up a line to show our passports and yellow fever card. Then we had to wait again in a long line to show them to another person. Finally we were able to move on to the place where we greeted Ruth. We were the very last to come out. First we hugged and hugged, and she laughed and laughed. She said she had started to worry that we had missed that plane or something. Then we had to collect our nine bags plus our “personal” bags. Fortunately, Ruth had brought a man with her to help and he was a genius. For awhile we couldn't find several of the bags, but eventually every one was accounted for. Then we realized there was another long line, and maybe our suitcases would be opened. Before we knew it, Paul and Ruth were saying, “Come this way.” We were ushered out a side door and outside without even going through that other line! It was obvious that Paul and Ruth were well known by airport personnel. Paul got several porters to help carry our suitcases down some pretty steep steps to the parking lot. All around me were the colors and smells and sights of Africa! I still could hardly believe it.

When we got to Ruth's home, Ruth and Raphael had to rush off to a wedding party, so the three of us were served dinner by ourselves. It was beef well-prepared, delicious, with a fresh fruit cup for dessert, complete with papaya. Finally we went to bed and we all slept well. I can't believe I have not been more affected by jet lag.

Ruth woke us all up this morning when it was time to get ready to go to church. She had explained that their assistant pastor was having his baby baptized in a brand new church recently started by their church. Again we had a lovely meal of papaya and a scone. Then we drove quite a distance to this new church. The traffic was absolutely anarchic! But Victor, the driver, was extremely competent. Paved roads soon turned into dirt roads, even while we were still in Douala. When we got there, I couldn't believe it. It looked like all the pictures I've ever seen of African churches. There were four walls and a roof in this case, but all the windows were wide open to the outdoors, and even though it was only recently built, we could see where the rain had come in and stained the wood. The floors were cement. The chancel area had a plain table and lectern, and there was a pulpit the preacher had to climb many steps to get up into.

I'm getting sleepy. I'll have to explain this magnificent day more tomorrow. Hopefully we'll go at a bit slower pace.

December 27, 2008 -- Brussels International Airport



We are on our way! Sam (my husband) went with us to the airport in Phoenix and he and I said our farewells. This is so much easier for me than for him because I'm off on a big adventure while he has to continue the routine of our lives. First we flew to Newark and waited there for several hours. Overnight we flew to Brussels. Barb and Joe and I are now sitting in the Brussels airport waiting for our connection to Douala. In about six hours we'll be in Africa. Last night I had a delightful seat mate – a 24 year old MD student who is on winter break. We talked in French and she said I wasn't doing too badly.

I slept very poorly. When I finally got to sleep, all too soon Barbara was awakening me because we were getting ready to land. While waiting, a sweet toddler named Micah took a shining to me. He climbed up in my lap and nearly fell asleep.

Friday, December 26, 2008

We are on our way

Sam accompanied us all on the shuttle to the Phoenix airport and snapped this picture.


We are sitting in the Phoenix airport waiting to get on the first leg of our flight. I still feel like this is a dream. I won't believe this is finally really happening until we get there. A tiny zipper on my shirt set off the metal detector and I had to be searched! Oh well. We allowed plenty of time.

Monday, December 22, 2008

I DO have a visa with passport!


Well, my visa did get here, five days before my departure. What a relief. I'm now winding up things here, packing, weighing the suitcase, repacking. My parish gave me a cash Christmas gift which will really help with expenses. I still haven't heard where the pick-up is, or when it will arrive in Cameroon. Much has yet to be revealed.

When Ruth and I were roommates in college I bought this lion piggy bank to save money to go to Africa some day. I still have the bank

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

OK. I'm Nervous

Five more post office days before I go and my passport/visa have not been returned by the Cameroonian embassy yet. My colleagues got their yesterday, so I still believe it will get here, but I can't help but be nervous. I have tried to call the embassy many times, but no one answers.

Friday, December 12, 2008

My Siblings are the Best

I am simply stunned. My five siblings and some of their kids got together and decided that rather than drawing names for the annual Christmas gift exchange, they would all donate to the Friends of WEH. Together they donated over $500 so we can pay for the maintenance and gasoline for the truck. We plan to do so on an ongoing basis.
Speaking of the truck, I hope to hear this week about an estimated time for its arrival in Cameroon. We do so hope it will get there in time for us to use it. Two weeks from now I'll be on the plane from Phoenix to Newark, then on to Brussels and Douala. I'm nervous. The embassy hasn't returned my passport with visa yet. I'll have to call them today.